Designer File: Iconics

Tuesday, March 31, 2015 Unknown 0 Comments


Thomas Burberry, a 21-year-old dressmaker, founded Burberry in 1856 when he opened its first store on Winchester Street in Basingstoke England. His first smocks created for farmers inspired the invention of the Gabardine cloth in 1879, which is waterproof, breathable, and rip resistant. In 1891 Burberrys first London store opened and the brand began to gain popularity for its quality and revolutionary outerwear. Record-breaking explorers and aviators continued to wear Burberry for their travel and were supplied with clothing and tents from the company. In 1900 Burberry was called upon by The British War Office to design an overcoat to replace the rubberized mackintoshes being used at the time. It was then that Burberry designed the legendary trench coat, which served suitable protection in the conditions of trench warfare. Because of the popularity and quality, Burberrys greatcoats were made regulation for officers from the King’s household in 1926. Continuing success lead to a New York flagship store in 1970. Into the 90’s luxury began to revitalize, and Rosemary Bravo was appointed as Chief Executive in 1997. Under Bravo the company was inspired to place the iconic check of the lining onto the outer gabardine of the raincoat. Along with being shown at London Fashion Week for the A/W 1999/2000, Kate Moss was photographed by paparazzi wearing the raincoat as street wear and the demand for the item skyrocketed. In the span of 5 years Bravo was able to raise the value of the company from $350 million to $2.67 billion and she retired as CEO in 2005. In 2000 Christopher Bailey became the Chief Creative and Chief Executive at Burberry. Bailey continues to bring a more consumable and commercial restoration to the company to this day.



It was when two trademarks were registered in 1904 and 1920 for the official logo and the signature Burberry check that the brands creative identity was beginning to be noticed. Thomas Burberry’s invention of gabardine cloth united the form of apparel to its name creating a distinguishable product of the Burberry Raincoat. A large piece of the company’s identity is how strongly it stays true to its traditions while still being a strong competitor in the luxury brand worldwide market. The weather and water protection of Thomas Burberry was the beginning point of the brand and it will continue to bring forth that reinvention in the company. Along with the inventive history, there is also British heritage recognized in the trademark check. Burberry continues to be an authentically British, historical, dependable and iconic luxury fashion house.

Prorsum Spring Sumer 2015 



Citation:
"Burberry - Iconic British Luxury Brand Est. 1856." Burberry. Accessed April 2, 2015.
"Burberry." The Berg Fashion Library. (n.d.). http://0-www.bergfashionlibrary.com.library.scad.edu/view/bdfh/bdfh-div10789.xml (accessed 2 Apr. 2015).
O'Neill, Alistair. "Burberry." The Berg Fashion Library. 2005. http://0-www.bergfashionlibrary.com.library.scad.edu/view/bazf/bazf00098.xml (accessed 2 Apr. 2015).




Coach was founded in 1941 as a family run workshop based in Manhattan. The company used six artisans to hand craft quality luxury leather bags, wallets and belts. From its growing success, in 1985 the Sara Lee Corporation purchased Coach. In October of 2000 the company had its initial public offering and then became a publically traded company on the New York Stock Exchange.By 2011 Coach became the first company to list in Hong Kong and also be incorporated in the US. Along with that, they were the first American company in their category to bring international relevance to an American leather goods brand. In September 2013 Stuart Vevers was appointed creative director. Victor Luis became the chief executive officer of Coach on Jan 1st 2014. By June 2014 Coach had 450 locations in 1,000 department stores in North America and 200 international Department stores. 
The Coach brand is a leading New York modern luxury design house that creates accessories and lifestyle collections for men and women. The famous Coach logo incorporating a horse pulling a buggy or coach shows how historic luxury can make its way into our modern lives. The house prides themselves as having a ‘classic American style with a distinctive New York spirit, offering a design that is known for a distinctive combination of style and function’. Stuart Verse, the appointed creative direction at this time, claims that he aims to continue to produce the authenticity Coach is known for. Even the brand identity can be seen in packaging through the rich signature color that reflects Coach’s mahogany leather. Their rich history being the first American leather goods brand to become international reflects in their trusted genuine leather and luxury construction. However, Vevers has brought more of the modern to their modern luxury identity during a time when Coach was struggling the most and net income was 45.3 percent below the first quarter of fiscal. Keeping the traditional New York architectural details Vevers looks to bring a feeling of warmth and the future of Coach. This will not turn off loyal customers however, because the historic creative Identity Coach has established will still be present in their stores, clothing and accessories.




Spring Sumer 2015 




Citations:

Day, Patti. "Design Archives." AIGA Design Archives RSS. January 1, 1998. Accessed April 2, 2015.
"COACH Official Site | New York Modern Luxury Brand Est. 1941." Accessed April 2, 2015.
Wintour, Anna, ed. "Advertisement: Coach Leatherware (Coach)." Vogue, January 1, 2015, 52,53. 







In 1971 designer Roger Saul established Mulberry in Somerset England on 500 euro he received for his 21st birthday. Saul chose to name the brand after a Mulberry tree he walked past each day at school. The brand began simply; Saul designed and manufactured high quality snakeskin chokers, leather wristbands and belts that lead to him opening his own boutique. In 1975 Mulberry’s ‘Hunting Shooting Fishing’ collection gave the brand the popular exposure it needed and the worldwide love of Mulberry began. Soon after, in 1979 the company received the Queens Award for Industry. The dispatch bag was introduced in 1981 and was inspired by the dispatch bags used by messenger couriers in World War I. Because of its popularity with the label it is produced in various materials, sizes and colors. By 1988 Mulberry had become the largest manufacturer in Britain of design quality accessories. In 1991 along with Charlton House Hotel in Saul’s hometown of Somerset, Mulberry introduced a home collection. The collection was said to exhibit and act out the Mulberry lifestyle. Saul wanted the world to know he wasn’t just selling fashion, but a way of life. A new chapter in Mulberry’s success story began with the opening of a second factory called The Willows. Following the tradition of Mulberry, all staff for The Willows had to be recruited from surrounding areas to support the local community and economy. At the end of 1999 Mulberry suffered losses amounting to well over a million pounds. According to Saul this was one of the most challenging periods in Mulberry’s history because the old fashioned way of life was not relevant in todays market. With 7.6 million given by Christina and Beng Seng Ong to assist development of the company in the U.S. Mulberry began to rise up again. Scott Henshall, a new designer, was set to make the Mulberry tradition more relevant with celebrity encoring aiding as well. In 2011 Bruno Guillion replaced Godfrey Davis as CEO and resigns later in March of 2014. Thierry Andretta is the newest Chief Executive to become effective April 7th of 2015.


Mulberry’s creative identity comes from a lifestyle the brand was designed around. Since that old fashion way of life became irrelevant in todays society the company strived to bring in a more youthful vibe. Mulberry now prides themselves in having an ‘English luxury brand inspired by the cool of the city and the craft of the countryside’. Mulberry has continued to create leather accessories and ready to wear clothing influenced by Roger Saul’s wish to sell a way of life along with the fashion. By having the support of celebrities and other socialites the company was able to almost reinvent themselves but still stay true to itself. The more recent Cara Delevigne collection is a prime example of that. The bags in the line are more modern but the advertising used pictures Delevigne sporting the accessories in the beautiful countryside and they seemingly fit perfectly together. That effortless cohesion represents the company’s transition from old fashioned to modern but still rustic and authentic. 

Spring Sumer 2015 




Citations:
Goodrum, Alison L. "A State of Disunion: Britishness and British Fashion." The Berg Fashion Library. 2005. http://0-www.bergfashionlibrary.com.library.scad.edu/view/NATFAB/chapter-NATFAB0006.xml (accessed 2 Apr. 2015).
"Burberry - Iconic British Luxury Brand Est. 1856." Burberry. Accessed April 2, 2015.
Cutler, Lori. "The History of Mulberry." Stylsh. October 12, 2013. Accessed April 2, 2015.





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